how to put the stem back in ?

[ABC]

ETA 2824 A2

Cleaned,timed and happy. So I put the winding mechanism in winding
postion, pulled out the stem, cased the movement. When I put the stem
back in, it disengaged the clutch pinion from the cluth lever.

So I had to take the dial side apart, put the lever back into the slot
of the clutch wheel, put the dial back......Case the watch. When I
put the stem back in, the clutch wheel "fell" off the lever again.

The happened each time. Did I miss something?

Thanks

ABC

[dAz]

Post by ABC
ETA 2824 A2
Cleaned,timed and happy. So I put the winding mechanism in winding
postion, pulled out the stem, cased the movement. When I put the stem
back in, it disengaged the clutch pinion from the cluth lever.
So I had to take the dial side apart, put the lever back into the slot
of the clutch wheel, put the dial back......Case the watch. When I
put the stem back in, the clutch wheel "fell" off the lever again.
The happened each time. Did I miss something?
Thanks
ABC

:)

that is a common problem, push the set lever in a bit too far and the
clutch lever will slip pass the clutch wheel, that is one of the reasons
ETA put a slot rather than a round hole where you push down on the set
lever pin, you are suppose to use a screwdriver that fits the slot, this
will in theory only allow the set lever to be pushed down just enough to
release the stem and not let the clutch lever to slip pass.

but I followed that rule on a new 2824 last week and the clutch lever
still slipped, you can pull the crown to the hand set position before
removing the stem and very carefully insert the stem when the movement
is back in the case, sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't.

just do what I do, rather than pull the movement out again, removing the
hands, dial, date wheel and coverplate etc, etc.

leave the movement in the case, pull the auto plate off, let the
mainspring down, remove the ratchet wheel and mainspring bridge, pull
the stem out, pull out the clutch wheel and winding pinion, put the stem
back, pull it into the hand set position, remove the stem, place the
winding pinion and clutch wheel back making sure the clutch wheel is
slotted onto the clutch lever, carefully put the stem back and check
action of the winding and setting, then just resemble the mainspring
bridge and auto system, just be careful of the little stop work lever
that is exposed when you take the mainspring bridge off, check that you
haven't lost it and it hasn't moved out of position.

I find it easier to attack the clutch wheel from the train side rather
than pulling the hands, dial and calendar off again, specially if you
just spent time placing the dial and hands on neatly and dust free, and
lessens the chance of marking the dial or hands, I have been assembling
new watches for a friend, these have black dials in divers cases, black
dials are a pain in the A. for dust or marks, so if don't have to pull
the hands and dial off again so much the better.

this is an old trick I learned 40years ago, as I said, it is a common
problem with ETAs.

dAz

[Frank Adam]

Post by dAz
I find it easier to attack the clutch wheel from the train side rather
than pulling the hands, dial and calendar off again, specially if you
just spent time placing the dial and hands on neatly and dust free, and
lessens the chance of marking the dial or hands, I have been assembling
new watches for a friend, these have black dials in divers cases, black
dials are a pain in the A. for dust or marks, so if don't have to pull
the hands and dial off again so much the better.

Of course, when you get a black dial with one of these types of jumpy yokes,
and it all goes together perfect, you already know that there must be a fluff
or speck that you've missed under the glass.
That's when the glass claws come off the shelf.. ;-)

Post by dAz
this is an old trick I learned 40years ago, as I said, it is a common
problem with ETAs.

ETA SA: "How can we improve on this ? Hm.. Ah voila ! We put a twist into the
stem's square, that should make it sooo much easier for a stem to slide into a
square straight walled hole and not bind." You gotta love them ETA designers.

Anyway, shhh, i'm doing one of these crappy original Piagets now.. I know,
it's nowhere near the ETA experience, but we can't choose what we have to do.
;-)

[Alex W.]

Post by Frank Adam
Anyway, shhh, i'm doing one of these crappy original Piagets now.. I know,
it's nowhere near the ETA experience, but we can't choose what we have to do.
;-)

Swap it out for a cheap Ronda movement.
Chances are the owner will never notice!
;-)

[dAz]

Post by Frank Adam

Post by dAz
I find it easier to attack the clutch wheel from the train side rather
than pulling the hands, dial and calendar off again, specially if you
just spent time placing the dial and hands on neatly and dust free, and
lessens the chance of marking the dial or hands, I have been assembling
new watches for a friend, these have black dials in divers cases, black
dials are a pain in the A. for dust or marks, so if don't have to pull
the hands and dial off again so much the better.

Of course, when you get a black dial with one of these types of jumpy yokes,
and it all goes together perfect, you already know that there must be a fluff
or speck that you've missed under the glass.
That's when the glass claws come off the shelf.. ;-)

hmmm the good old days when most watches had plexis, putting these new
divers together for my friend I got into a bit of a routine, put the
dial on, fit the hands, check all over for dust, thoroughly clean the
inside of the case, use compressed air to blow the case out, lightly
dust the dial with compressed air, place the movement on a block and
drop the case on, with a strong light check for dust, yep a speck near
the 3 mark, lift the case off, remove speck, dust again, place back on
movement, check again, hmmm slight blemish on the seconds hand where the
tweezers touched it, I know the customer won't see it but I can so
repeat as above and eventually, the dial is dust and mark free, turn the
case over fit the crown and stem ............ bloody clutch wheel!!!,
nah, fit the case ring and clamps then reset clutch wheel from the train
side, no way am I going to pull that dial off again.

Post by Frank Adam

Post by dAz
this is an old trick I learned 40years ago, as I said, it is a common
problem with ETAs.

ETA SA: "How can we improve on this ? Hm.. Ah voila ! We put a twist into the
stem's square, that should make it sooo much easier for a stem to slide into a
square straight walled hole and not bind." You gotta love them ETA designers.

yep, and of course the movement with the twisted stem is very similar to
the movement with the straight stem, so when you think you have the
right stem it's the other one you need.

Post by Frank Adam
Anyway, shhh, i'm doing one of these crappy original Piagets now.. I know,
it's nowhere near the ETA experience, but we can't choose what we have to do.
;-)

swap it out for a chinese movement, I don't think the customer will
notice the extra bulge in the back ;)

[Frank Adam]

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 10:08:27 +1000, dAz <***@MintLint.org> wrote:
<snip>

Post by dAz

Post by Frank Adam
Anyway, shhh, i'm doing one of these crappy original Piagets now.. I know,
it's nowhere near the ETA experience, but we can't choose what we have to do.
;-)

swap it out for a chinese movement, I don't think the customer will
notice the extra bulge in the back ;)

Now just hang on a second, i am a conscientious watchmaker. I'll use a Swiss
Ebauche, maybe even a Ronda.. ;-)

So thin, it is almost in 2D. A bit like trying to pick up a pallet off a
picture.. or maybe i need another eye check. :)

[ABC]

My goodness. I will try the setting position method first.

ABC

Post by dAz
leave the movement in the case, pull the auto plate off, let the
mainspring down, remove the ratchet wheel and mainspring bridge, pull
the stem out, pull out the clutch wheel and winding pinion, put the stem
back, pull it into the hand set position, remove the stem, place the
winding pinion and clutch wheel back making sure the clutch wheel is
slotted onto the clutch lever, carefully put the stem back and check
action of the winding and setting, then just resemble the mainspring
bridge and auto system, just be careful of the little stop work lever
that is exposed when you take the mainspring bridge off, check that you
haven't lost it and it hasn't moved out of position.

[dAz]

On 15/07/11 22:15, ABC wrote:

heh! it is actually easier and quicker to do than to say it, this
particular 2824 did it to me twice, first time the hands and dial were
already off, so I reset it the normal way from the dial side, the second
time was when it was in the case with the new dial and hands, I was not
going to pull the movement out again after triple checking for dust and
blemishes on the black dial.

it would take me less than 2 mins to reset the clutch wheel going in
from the train side.

dAz

Post by ABC
My goodness. I will try the setting position method first.
ABC

Post by dAz
leave the movement in the case, pull the auto plate off, let the
mainspring down, remove the ratchet wheel and mainspring bridge, pull
the stem out, pull out the clutch wheel and winding pinion, put the stem
back, pull it into the hand set position, remove the stem, place the
winding pinion and clutch wheel back making sure the clutch wheel is
slotted onto the clutch lever, carefully put the stem back and check
action of the winding and setting, then just resemble the mainspring
bridge and auto system, just be careful of the little stop work lever
that is exposed when you take the mainspring bridge off, check that you
haven't lost it and it hasn't moved out of position.