ABC
2011-06-13 05:39:31 UTC
Do they give slower BPH only because they have gotten older. assuming
everything else remains the same?
ABC
everything else remains the same?
ABC
Discussion:
(too old to reply)
dAz
2011-06-13 12:10:03 UTC
Post by ABC
Do they give slower BPH only because they have gotten older. assuming
everything else remains the same?
ABC
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected byDo they give slower BPH only because they have gotten older. assuming
everything else remains the same?
ABC
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
ABC
2011-06-14 13:45:52 UTC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
Post by dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
Frank Adam
2011-06-14 22:19:15 UTC
Post by ABC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
I'm not buying the age thing. Certainly not after 6 years.The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
C'mon, we all repair watches(assuming you're one of us) that are 40+ years old
and touching the hairspring is a very unusual event even with the old blue
ones.
The Rolex usually has fairly decent amount of adjustment via the two shift
weights, but not as much as you could have with a normal regulator. However,
if age were to affect the hairspring to the stage where those won't do, in 12
years time you'll run out of hairspring. I've done a few of those which were
certainly more than 6 years old and the damn things just run straight up the
paper, usually not even needing an adjustment. It is what i like about the
newer (ie:30-ish year old) Rolex movements. You rarely have to adjust them
unless you muck up the oiling or miss something. That may be a hint. ;-)
ETAs, well, they are ok but i don't expect the factory assembly and testing to
be at the same level as Rolex would have. It wouldn't be the first time i saw
a previously untouched ETA auto with its regulator quite a way over, so that
may well be the case here. Slight wear, bit of a bind in the barrel, perhaps a
bit of oil snuck onto the pallet jewels(read: bearings) and you could indeed
run out of adjustement on some of them. Double check everything though before
mucking with the hairspring.. although, i presume you've done that.
--
Regards, Frank
Regards, Frank
dAz
2011-06-15 00:05:51 UTC
Post by Frank Adam
The Rolex usually has fairly decent amount of adjustment via the two shift
weights, but not as much as you could have with a normal regulator. However,
if age were to affect the hairspring to the stage where those won't do, in 12
years time you'll run out of hairspring. I've done a few of those which were
certainly more than 6 years old and the damn things just run straight up the
paper, usually not even needing an adjustment. It is what i like about the
newer (ie:30-ish year old) Rolex movements. You rarely have to adjust them
unless you muck up the oiling or miss something. That may be a hint. ;-)
yep, that is one of the few things I do like about rolex, after aThe Rolex usually has fairly decent amount of adjustment via the two shift
weights, but not as much as you could have with a normal regulator. However,
if age were to affect the hairspring to the stage where those won't do, in 12
years time you'll run out of hairspring. I've done a few of those which were
certainly more than 6 years old and the damn things just run straight up the
paper, usually not even needing an adjustment. It is what i like about the
newer (ie:30-ish year old) Rolex movements. You rarely have to adjust them
unless you muck up the oiling or miss something. That may be a hint. ;-)
service and on the vibrograf it just tracks straight up the paper in a
nice clean single line, hardly ever need to adjust it.
--
dAz
dAz
2011-06-15 00:00:24 UTC
On 14/06/11 23:45, ABC wrote:
basically what Frank said.
the rolex is this one?
Loading Image...
the one with the freesprung hairspring, normally adjusted for rate by
moving the weights on the balance wheel in pairs
I would be checking other things before touching the hairsprings, and
seeing you have the same problem in two different movements I would
reviewing your cleaning procedures.
is your cleaning solution fresh?
did you remove the mainsprings from the barrels?
remove the balance and pallets is the train free running? as in if you
wind the mainspring slightly the train spins up with no hesitation then
runs backwards as the inertia of the train overruns the mainspring
are the pallet pivots and hole jewels free of oil and sparkling clean.
the shock jewels and other endstone jewels like on the escape wheel
upper hole, you do take them apart and clean them, use a microscope or
strong eyeglass to make sure, specially the hole jewel setting, I have
had to use pegwood on some of these to scrape gummed up oil off, and
check the balance pivots, you can use the flat end of the pegwood
stabbed onto the pivot and spun in your fingers to clean it if needed, a
dab of dry diamentene on the pegwood can help in giving the pivot a bit
of a polish.
at 6years, 12 years, 20years 30years the hairsprings on these movements
will not be affected by age, even 200year old watches with blue steel
hairsprings still keep good rate and amplitude.
dAz
basically what Frank said.
the rolex is this one?
Loading Image...
the one with the freesprung hairspring, normally adjusted for rate by
moving the weights on the balance wheel in pairs
I would be checking other things before touching the hairsprings, and
seeing you have the same problem in two different movements I would
reviewing your cleaning procedures.
is your cleaning solution fresh?
did you remove the mainsprings from the barrels?
remove the balance and pallets is the train free running? as in if you
wind the mainspring slightly the train spins up with no hesitation then
runs backwards as the inertia of the train overruns the mainspring
are the pallet pivots and hole jewels free of oil and sparkling clean.
the shock jewels and other endstone jewels like on the escape wheel
upper hole, you do take them apart and clean them, use a microscope or
strong eyeglass to make sure, specially the hole jewel setting, I have
had to use pegwood on some of these to scrape gummed up oil off, and
check the balance pivots, you can use the flat end of the pegwood
stabbed onto the pivot and spun in your fingers to clean it if needed, a
dab of dry diamentene on the pegwood can help in giving the pivot a bit
of a polish.
at 6years, 12 years, 20years 30years the hairsprings on these movements
will not be affected by age, even 200year old watches with blue steel
hairsprings still keep good rate and amplitude.
dAz
Post by ABC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
Post by dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
ABC
2011-06-16 01:31:50 UTC
Yes. that is the 2135. It was became too fast after 6 years. I was
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error. It has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
These are the only 2 that gave me the mystery(first cleaning since
leaving factory). Other antique watches are perfectly good boys.
ABC
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error. It has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
These are the only 2 that gave me the mystery(first cleaning since
leaving factory). Other antique watches are perfectly good boys.
ABC
Post by dAz
basically what Frank said.
the rolex is this one?
http://www.horologist.com/images/RolRef2135A.jpg
the one with the freesprung hairspring, normally adjusted for rate by
moving the weights on the balance wheel in pairs
I would be checking other things before touching the hairsprings, and
seeing you have the same problem in two different movements I would
reviewing your cleaning procedures.
is your cleaning solution fresh?
did you remove the mainsprings from the barrels?
remove the balance and pallets is the train free running? as in if you
wind the mainspring slightly the train spins up with no hesitation then
runs backwards as the inertia of the train overruns the mainspring
are the pallet pivots and hole jewels free of oil and sparkling clean.
the shock jewels and other endstone jewels like on the escape wheel
upper hole, you do take them apart and clean them, use a microscope or
strong eyeglass to make sure, specially the hole jewel setting, I have
had to use pegwood on some of these to scrape gummed up oil off, and
check the balance pivots, you can use the flat end of the pegwood
stabbed onto the pivot and spun in your fingers to clean it if needed, a
dab of dry diamentene on the pegwood can help in giving the pivot a bit
of a polish.
at 6years, 12 years, 20years 30years the hairsprings on these movements
will not be affected by age, even 200year old watches with blue steel
hairsprings still keep good rate and amplitude.
dAz
basically what Frank said.
the rolex is this one?
http://www.horologist.com/images/RolRef2135A.jpg
the one with the freesprung hairspring, normally adjusted for rate by
moving the weights on the balance wheel in pairs
I would be checking other things before touching the hairsprings, and
seeing you have the same problem in two different movements I would
reviewing your cleaning procedures.
is your cleaning solution fresh?
did you remove the mainsprings from the barrels?
remove the balance and pallets is the train free running? as in if you
wind the mainspring slightly the train spins up with no hesitation then
runs backwards as the inertia of the train overruns the mainspring
are the pallet pivots and hole jewels free of oil and sparkling clean.
the shock jewels and other endstone jewels like on the escape wheel
upper hole, you do take them apart and clean them, use a microscope or
strong eyeglass to make sure, specially the hole jewel setting, I have
had to use pegwood on some of these to scrape gummed up oil off, and
check the balance pivots, you can use the flat end of the pegwood
stabbed onto the pivot and spun in your fingers to clean it if needed, a
dab of dry diamentene on the pegwood can help in giving the pivot a bit
of a polish.
at 6years, 12 years, 20years 30years the hairsprings on these movements
will not be affected by age, even 200year old watches with blue steel
hairsprings still keep good rate and amplitude.
dAz
Post by ABC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
The ones I am talking about are not old. One is a Rolex 2135, the
other is a Ball ETA 2824. Both about 6 yrs old
Both watches have not been serviced since they were bought brand new.
They were not keeping their BPH anymore .After cleaning I ended up
having to lengthen the hairspring on the Rolex at the stud so that it
can now keeps time at 28800bph. No way to get the correct rate at the
factory length.
The ETA 2824 is too slow. I am already at the end range of the index
pin adjustment. Will need to move the index pin even further to get it
right.
Both hairsprings are not rusted. Cannot explain this except by aging.
ABC
Post by dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
depends on the metal used I suppose, blued steel is more affected by
rust but otherwise would not change much
cheap watches and clocks with bronze hairsprings can be weakened by
aggressive cleaning solutions
the various alloys used in better hairsprings seem to be quite resistant
to chemicals and environment.
other than that hairsprings are not under a lot of stress so don't
really wear out
now if you are talking about the amplitude of the balance on an older
movement as in the balance is not swinging as far as it should can be
due to fatigued mainsprings specially if its one of the old blued steel
springs, or something as simple as the clagged up balance jewels with
old oil that literally has to be scraped off and pegged out.
dAz
dAz
2011-06-16 02:57:21 UTC
Post by ABC
Yes. that is the 2135. It was became too fast after 6 years. I was
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error.
that watch has a clamp to hold the hairspring doesn't it? so that wouldYes. that is the 2135. It was became too fast after 6 years. I was
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error.
be a simple adjustment.
been a few years since I touched a rolex, I will not work on them
because they won't sell me the parts.
Post by ABC
It has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
understandable, one guy I talked to years ago used to take them outIt has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
through a large plastic bag in case the shock spring took off.
the endstone is easy enough, a 4" square piece of tissue paper like they
use to wrap jewellery in, folded in half, put the endstone between the
tissue and rub firmly flat on the bench,this will polish the stone
without losing it, the hole jewel well you can soak that in thinners to
help remove old hard oil, but still the best is sharpened pegwood, maybe
work through a plastic bag if you are worried the tweezers slipping and
sending the hole jewel into the dark recesses of the workshop :)
dAz
Post by ABC
These are the only 2 that gave me the mystery(first cleaning since
leaving factory). Other antique watches are perfectly good boys.
These are the only 2 that gave me the mystery(first cleaning since
leaving factory). Other antique watches are perfectly good boys.
Frank Adam
2011-06-16 19:44:17 UTC
Post by dAz
be a simple adjustment.
been a few years since I touched a rolex, I will not work on them
because they won't sell me the parts.
Mmm.. I've got one to do. It may even be a 2135, but i can't remember, iPost by ABC
Yes. that is the 2135. It was became too fast after 6 years. I was
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error.
that watch has a clamp to hold the hairspring doesn't it? so that wouldYes. that is the 2135. It was became too fast after 6 years. I was
more scared of moving the weights so I lenghthen the spring. adjusted
the bear error.
be a simple adjustment.
been a few years since I touched a rolex, I will not work on them
because they won't sell me the parts.
quoted it a month or so ago and only got the go ahead now. It needs a new
Crown and i told them that i can't get the original so perhaps they should try
Rolex. Well, they don't want to take it to Rolex, they want me to fix it and
fit an aftermarket crown and pipe. Looks as if some people did buy that i can
do a decent job, but shhh...
It'll be a proper screw in one, so no altarations to the case, it's just that
the thing will use Indian or Chinese winding languages. :)
Post by dAz
through a large plastic bag in case the shock spring took off.
LOL. You're kidding me. :)Post by ABC
It has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
understandable, one guy I talked to years ago used to take them outIt has been keeping time since. May be I should have
double checked the shocked jewels more thoroughly, but it was fairly
scary taking them apart.
through a large plastic bag in case the shock spring took off.
They are KIFs, they're less likely to fly than Incablocs(especially those
little ones from the bottom of Omega 625s and its kins. I bought a dozen of
those some years back and have only 2-3 left.. :)
Post by dAz
the endstone is easy enough, a 4" square piece of tissue paper like they
use to wrap jewellery in, folded in half, put the endstone between the
tissue and rub firmly flat on the bench,this will polish the stone
without losing it, the hole jewel well you can soak that in thinners to
help remove old hard oil, but still the best is sharpened pegwood, maybe
I pull my finger out for them. Open the spring, chuck the setting completethe endstone is easy enough, a 4" square piece of tissue paper like they
use to wrap jewellery in, folded in half, put the endstone between the
tissue and rub firmly flat on the bench,this will polish the stone
without losing it, the hole jewel well you can soak that in thinners to
help remove old hard oil, but still the best is sharpened pegwood, maybe
upside down into the Rodico so the cap jewel sticks, then remove the setting
and put it into the Rodico on it's own. Wipe the cap jewel with my finger a
few times and unless it was extremely gummed up, it'll be clean and shiny. Peg
the setting and then it goes into the mini-basket. Close one arm of the shock
spring and the bridge gets chucked into the normal basket.
When they are badly stuck together i just use a piece of sticky tape to
separate them, but of course you do need good sharp tweezers..
Those bloody Russian shocks that have no shoulder on the setting are a
mongrel. Probably designed by Stalin himself as a torture.
Post by dAz
work through a plastic bag if you are worried the tweezers slipping and
sending the hole jewel into the dark recesses of the workshop :)
Eh, that only happens when you definitely don't have a spare one and/or thework through a plastic bag if you are worried the tweezers slipping and
sending the hole jewel into the dark recesses of the workshop :)
job is promised for tomorrow.. Easy fix, don't promise it. :)
--
Regards, Frank
Regards, Frank
ABC
2011-06-16 22:57:03 UTC
Tried Jules Borel?? Plenty of Rolex parts.
ABC
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 05:44:17 +1000, Frank Adam
ABC
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 05:44:17 +1000, Frank Adam
Post by Frank Adam
Mmm.. I've got one to do. It may even be a 2135, but i can't remember, i
quoted it a month or so ago and only got the go ahead now. It needs a new
Crown and i told them that i can't get the original so perhaps they should try
Rolex. Well, they don't want to take it to Rolex, they want me to fix it and
fit an aftermarket crown and pipe. Looks as if some people did buy that i can
do a decent job, but shhh...
It'll be a proper screw in one, so no altarations to the case, it's just that
the thing will use Indian or Chinese winding languages. :)
Mmm.. I've got one to do. It may even be a 2135, but i can't remember, i
quoted it a month or so ago and only got the go ahead now. It needs a new
Crown and i told them that i can't get the original so perhaps they should try
Rolex. Well, they don't want to take it to Rolex, they want me to fix it and
fit an aftermarket crown and pipe. Looks as if some people did buy that i can
do a decent job, but shhh...
It'll be a proper screw in one, so no altarations to the case, it's just that
the thing will use Indian or Chinese winding languages. :)
dAz
2011-06-17 04:29:40 UTC
This post might be inappropriate. Click to display it.
dAz
2011-06-17 04:14:24 UTC
Post by Frank Adam
Mmm.. I've got one to do. It may even be a 2135, but i can't remember, i
quoted it a month or so ago and only got the go ahead now. It needs a new
Crown and i told them that i can't get the original so perhaps they should try
Rolex. Well, they don't want to take it to Rolex, they want me to fix it and
fit an aftermarket crown and pipe. Looks as if some people did buy that i can
do a decent job, but shhh...
It'll be a proper screw in one, so no altarations to the case, it's just that
the thing will use Indian or Chinese winding languages. :)
soooo will it have a lefthand thread ;)Mmm.. I've got one to do. It may even be a 2135, but i can't remember, i
quoted it a month or so ago and only got the go ahead now. It needs a new
Crown and i told them that i can't get the original so perhaps they should try
Rolex. Well, they don't want to take it to Rolex, they want me to fix it and
fit an aftermarket crown and pipe. Looks as if some people did buy that i can
do a decent job, but shhh...
It'll be a proper screw in one, so no altarations to the case, it's just that
the thing will use Indian or Chinese winding languages. :)
Post by Frank Adam
They are KIFs, they're less likely to fly than Incablocs(especially those
little ones from the bottom of Omega 625s and its kins. I bought a dozen of
those some years back and have only 2-3 left.. :)
well it was one guy's solution to his problem, I still have heaps ofPost by dAz
understandable, one guy I talked to years ago used to take them out
through a large plastic bag in case the shock spring took off.
LOL. You're kidding me. :)understandable, one guy I talked to years ago used to take them out
through a large plastic bag in case the shock spring took off.
They are KIFs, they're less likely to fly than Incablocs(especially those
little ones from the bottom of Omega 625s and its kins. I bought a dozen of
those some years back and have only 2-3 left.. :)
incabloc spares, a few kifs plus some other more obscure shock springs
and bits
Post by Frank Adam
upside down into the Rodico so the cap jewel sticks, then remove the setting
and put it into the Rodico on it's own. Wipe the cap jewel with my finger a
few times and unless it was extremely gummed up, it'll be clean and shiny. Peg
the setting and then it goes into the mini-basket. Close one arm of the shock
spring and the bridge gets chucked into the normal basket.
When they are badly stuck together i just use a piece of sticky tape to
separate them, but of course you do need good sharp tweezers..
some that have come in looked like contact glue was used as the oil, thePost by dAz
the endstone is easy enough, a 4" square piece of tissue paper like they
use to wrap jewellery in, folded in half, put the endstone between the
tissue and rub firmly flat on the bench,this will polish the stone
without losing it, the hole jewel well you can soak that in thinners to
help remove old hard oil, but still the best is sharpened pegwood, maybe
I pull my finger out for them. Open the spring, chuck the setting completethe endstone is easy enough, a 4" square piece of tissue paper like they
use to wrap jewellery in, folded in half, put the endstone between the
tissue and rub firmly flat on the bench,this will polish the stone
without losing it, the hole jewel well you can soak that in thinners to
help remove old hard oil, but still the best is sharpened pegwood, maybe
upside down into the Rodico so the cap jewel sticks, then remove the setting
and put it into the Rodico on it's own. Wipe the cap jewel with my finger a
few times and unless it was extremely gummed up, it'll be clean and shiny. Peg
the setting and then it goes into the mini-basket. Close one arm of the shock
spring and the bridge gets chucked into the normal basket.
When they are badly stuck together i just use a piece of sticky tape to
separate them, but of course you do need good sharp tweezers..
tissue paper trick was shown to me many moons ago when I worked for
swiss watch, just a folded piece of acid free tissue paper with the
endstone in the middle, flat on the bench with your finger and polish
the little bastard, works really well and you cannot lose the jewel,
with hole settings if they are really gummy I just peg them out, I have
a pair of tweezers with a round notch filed in that grips the setting,
served me well for the last 30 odd years.
Post by Frank Adam
Those bloody Russian shocks that have no shoulder on the setting are a
mongrel. Probably designed by Stalin himself as a torture.
job is promised for tomorrow.. Easy fix, don't promise it. :)
hmmm, or you have new movement which you need to shorten the stem toThose bloody Russian shocks that have no shoulder on the setting are a
mongrel. Probably designed by Stalin himself as a torture.
Post by dAz
work through a plastic bag if you are worried the tweezers slipping and
sending the hole jewel into the dark recesses of the workshop :)
Eh, that only happens when you definitely don't have a spare one and/or thework through a plastic bag if you are worried the tweezers slipping and
sending the hole jewel into the dark recesses of the workshop :)
job is promised for tomorrow.. Easy fix, don't promise it. :)
fit, and of course you only have one stem that only fits that movement
and you break it grrrrr! 3 week wait for 10 new ones, at least the
client wasn't in a hurry, its a Soprod A-10 automatic, will fit the same
hands and dial as the Eta 2892, but otherwise it is quite a different
layout to the Etas.
dAz