Post by Blue Fins at SeaQuestion: is the Nettuno 3, model 2007.2 quality (fit, finish and
band) is at least as the Rolex Submariner? What kind of steel they use
for Nettuno 3 watch?
Almost all stainless watches other than Rolex use 316L steel. Rolex uses
904L which is more expensive and slightly more corrosion resistant but the
difference is more theoretical than real. In actual performance there is
little if any difference. Rolex's use of a different steel is sometimes
used by Rolex fans/salesmen as an explanation for why they are so expensive
but it is a totally inadequate explanation since even in 904L the steel
content in a watch has a minimal value. 316L goes for around $1/lb, 904L
for maybe $3. A watch with metal band has around a 1/4 of lb. of steel in
it... being generous to account for machining losses, we can say that a
Rolex has maybe $1.50 worth of steel in it. That leaves another $3000+ to be
accounted for.
Rolex is famous for the poor quality of its bands. I have seen under $100
watches with noticeably better bands than Rolex. There have been some
clever advances over the last 50 years in designing forged metal clasps
that fold flat and unobtrusively and are comfortable but Rolex has stuck
with its ancient stamped sheet metal design. That Rolex charges over $500
for a replacement of its pathetic tin buckled band gives you an idea of how
overpriced the entire watch is. The Nettuno band is nicer but this is not
saying much.Submariner cases are also famous for their sharp lugs that dig
into your flesh.
The one area where the Rolex has the Nettuno beat is in the movement. Rolex
movements are not that well finished but they use a free sprung balance
which is considered horologically superior and they run within chronometer
specs. Again the actual difference on the wrist will be minimal if any but
you have to give Rolex the win in that column. But again it is far fetched
to say that the quality of the movements justifies the Rolex premium. The
premium obviously exists in the market in that Rolex is able to sell these
watches for a high price, but I attribute that to the "famousness" of the
Rolex trademark which has a greater impact on the price than any actual
feature of their watches.
Post by Blue Fins at SeaI also interested in Hamilton Chrono watch, they use Valjoux 7750
movement on ebay for less than $500.00, since Marcello use the same
movement on their more expensive line watch (eg 2015.1 model) , I
wonder if the Marcello fit, finish and quality of material offset the
cost?
As we have discussed before, there are very high diminishing returns on
improvments to watches. No doubt the Marcello is nicer finished than the
Hamilton Khakis but whether the increased cost is worth it is up to the
buyer. Certainly the performance and durability of the two 7750 based
watches will be similar so the benefits will be largely intangible in the
form of "nicer" appearance. If you were to compare the two watches closely
side by side under magnification you might see difference that are not
obvious (and that your friends will never ever see) - the way the markers
on the dial are constructed, the method that the bracelet is held together
(screws vs. pins), etc. These all add to the cost but in most cases the
cheaper way "gets the job done" just as well. But they say "the great is
the enemy of the good" and some people want not just "good enough" but the
best, price be damned. Swatch can also offer the Hamiltons economically
since they make the movements themselves and since they import most of the
rest of the components from Asia for assembly in Switzerland.